Origins of Argentina Tango & Milonga
I'm used to the 6. Even in Europe, I know they start early. So the advertised 10am commencement of the weekly Feria de San Telmo in Buenos Aires doesn't ring true to me. Surely all the best things for sale will be snapped up by then.
But 10am is what all the guides say. I decide to split the difference, catching the train from my accommodation in Palermo Hollywood around 8am to get into San Telmo, the Argentinian capital's oldest barrio, no later than half past.
But on the train this Sunday morning, it's just me and a couple of sleepy night clubbers making their way home. And when I get to San Telmo, shutters are almost uniformly closed on the lovely old buildings that line the cobbled streets.
All is quiet. This is a city that likes to stay up late.
So it should have been no surprise that its famous Sunday market really means it when it says it doesn't open till 10am. It's probably so the nearby residents can sleep in. Fortunately, San Telmo's ornate Bar el Federal begins service at eight.
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So I ensconce at a window seat with a coffee and pastry and watch the neighbourhood wake up. Then I take some time exploring the nearby covered market, the built Mercado de San Telmo, which is largely a foodie affair, but has booths of collectables such as antique dolls, secondhand records, vintage jewellery and clothing.
Choosing your Tango Show in Buenos Aires
But with public gatherings forbidden, would-be milongueros found themselves with no where to go — and no way to practice. Tango once again fell into decline. Fortunately, tango could not be kept down. It continued to live on in smaller venues across Argentina for decades until once again finding a foothold in Paris in the s with the opening of the show Tango Argentino.
Travel Postcard: 48 hours in Buenos Aires - Reuters
The dance once again became a cultural staple at home in Argentina, where it has remained ever since. David Bowie. John Lennon. The Ramones.
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